The Edge of the World
The Faroe Islands are an archipelago of 18 volcanic islands in the North Atlantic, roughly halfway between Norway, Iceland, and Scotland. The landscape is so dramatic it looks computer-generated — sheer sea cliffs dropping 400+ metres into the ocean, grass-roofed villages clinging to mountainsides above fjords, waterfalls that blow upward in the wind rather than falling down, and a quality of light that shifts from moody grey to brilliant green-gold within minutes. The islands support a population of roughly 54,000 people, plus several hundred thousand seabirds — including one of the world’s largest Atlantic puffin colonies — and approximately the same number of sheep as humans.
The Faroes have been growing in visibility among adventurous travellers for the past decade, but they remain genuinely remote and genuinely uncommercialized in a way that Iceland — the closest comparable destination — increasingly isn’t. There are no chain hotels, no cruise ship infrastructure, no mass-tourism bottlenecks. The villages look the way they’ve looked for centuries: turf-roofed wooden houses, stone churches, boat sheds on the harbour, and sheep grazing on the hillsides above. A guided tour of the Faroe Islands is the best way to navigate the archipelago’s dispersed geography, unpredictable weather, and limited road network — and to access the seabird colonies, cliff viewpoints, and island communities that make the Faroes extraordinary.
What Makes the Faroes Extraordinary
The sea cliffs are the Faroes’ most dramatic natural feature. The western islands face the open Atlantic and their coastlines have been carved by millions of years of ocean assault into vertical walls of basalt that rank among the highest sea cliffs in Europe. Vestmanna, on the island of Streymoy, offers cliff faces rising over 450 metres from the waterline — experienced by boat tour from the village below, where the vessel navigates into sea caves and along cliff bases with thousands of seabirds nesting on the ledges above. The cliffs at Enniberg on the island of Viðoy reach 754 metres — among the highest vertical sea cliffs in the world.
The seabird colonies are accessible in a way that’s rare elsewhere. The island of Mykines (the westernmost inhabited island, population roughly 10) hosts one of the largest and most accessible Atlantic puffin colonies in the world. From May through August, the hillsides are covered with puffins — waddling, burrowing, launching off cliffs with fish-stuffed beaks — and you can approach within metres without disturbing them. Gannets, guillemots, razorbills, fulmars, and Arctic terns also nest in enormous numbers across the islands. For birdwatchers and wildlife photographers, the Faroes are one of the premier destinations in the North Atlantic.
The optical illusions. The Faroes’ unusual topography creates several landscape features that look physically impossible. The lake above the ocean (Sørvágsvatn/Leitisvatn on Vágar island) appears to hover on a cliff high above the sea — it’s actually at a much lower elevation than it appears, but the visual effect is staggering and has become one of the most photographed landscapes in the North Atlantic. The waterfalls that flow into the ocean directly from cliff edges — including the Múlafossur waterfall, which drops 30 metres from a hanging valley into the sea — are equally surreal.
The villages are not tourist attractions in the conventional sense — they’re living communities with a visual character that comes from centuries of adaptation to an extreme environment. Gjógv (a village built around a natural gorge harbour), Saksun (a handful of turf-roofed farmhouses at the head of a tidal lagoon surrounded by mountains), and Gásadalur (the village behind Múlafossur waterfall, accessible by road only since 2004) are among the most striking, but almost every village in the Faroes has a setting that would be a headline attraction anywhere else.
Tour Formats
Multi-day guided tours are the most practical format for most international visitors. The Faroes’ 18 islands are connected by tunnels, bridges, ferries, and — uniquely — a government-operated helicopter service that functions as public transport. Navigating this system independently requires familiarity with ferry schedules, tunnel systems, and the weather’s tendency to disrupt transport at short notice. A multi-day guided tour (typically 4–7 days) covers the major islands, manages the inter-island logistics, and includes a guide whose local knowledge opens access to viewpoints, hiking trails, and village experiences that self-guided visitors miss.
Boat tours are essential for the cliff and seabird experiences. The Vestmanna sea cliffs tour (approximately 2 hours by boat from the village of Vestmanna) takes you along the base of towering cliff faces, into sea caves, and past seabird colonies at water level — a perspective impossible from land. Boat tours to Mykines island for the puffin colonies operate from Sørvágur on Vágar island, weather permitting. Sailing tours through the fjords and along the coastline offer the Faroes from the ocean — which is, historically, how the islands were always experienced.
Helicopter tours between islands are one of the Faroes’ most unique experiences. The government helicopter service (Atlantic Airways) operates scheduled flights between islands, used by locals as everyday transport in a landscape where road connections don’t exist between all islands. Booking a helicopter seat (at heavily subsidised local prices, when available to tourists) gives you a bird’s-eye view of the cliff formations, the villages, and the ocean that no other vantage point can match.
Hiking tours access the Faroes’ most dramatic landscapes on foot. The hike to the Sørvágsvatn lake-above-the-ocean viewpoint (moderate, approximately 3 hours return) is the most popular and gives you the iconic photograph. The hike across Mykines island to the lighthouse and puffin colonies is a full day. Mountain hikes on the northern islands — Borðoy, Viðoy, Kunoy — reach the highest peaks and the most remote coastlines. A guided hiking tour manages the terrain (which can be steep, exposed, and subject to rapid weather changes) and provides the local knowledge to find routes and viewpoints that aren’t marked on maps.
Photography tours time the itinerary around the Faroes’ extraordinary light conditions — the long golden hours of summer evenings, the moody low cloud that creates dramatic atmosphere, and the positions and angles that make the landscape’s natural optical illusions most striking. A photography-focused guide knows when and where to be for the best conditions, which is critical in a destination where the weather changes hour by hour.
Birdwatching tours focus on the seabird colonies, particularly during the breeding season (May–August). Mykines for puffins and gannets, the Vestmanna cliffs for guillemots and fulmars, and the sea stacks around Drangarnir for gannets are the primary targets. An ornithological guide identifies species, explains behaviour, and knows which colonies are most active on which dates.
Practical Tips
Weather is the defining variable. The Faroes’ weather is notoriously changeable — four seasons in one day is not a cliche here, it’s a regular occurrence. Rain, wind, fog, and sunshine can cycle through in a single morning. This affects everything: ferry schedules, helicopter flights, hiking conditions, visibility at viewpoints, and your comfort level outdoors. Pack for every condition simultaneously (waterproof outer layer, warm mid-layer, base layer) and be prepared for plans to change at short notice.
Book Mykines in advance. Access to Mykines island is controlled to protect the puffin colonies, and the ferry has limited capacity. In peak season (June–August), the ferry sells out days in advance. Helicopter seats to Mykines are even more limited. Book as early as your dates allow.
Bring proper hiking gear. Even short walks in the Faroes can involve steep, wet terrain with exposed cliff edges and no barriers. Waterproof boots with ankle support, a waterproof jacket, and warm layers are essential for any hiking. The terrain is unforgiving of inadequate footwear.
The Faroes are expensive. Prices for accommodation, dining, and transport are comparable to Scandinavian countries — significantly higher than most European destinations. Budget accordingly. The quality of what you get (fresh seafood, dramatic landscapes, uncrowded experiences) is high, but the cost is real.
Drive carefully if self-driving. The roads are narrow, steep, and often single-track with passing places. Sheep wander onto the road without warning. Tunnels are sometimes single-lane with carved-out passing bays inside the mountain. Fog can reduce visibility to metres. The driving is manageable but requires constant attention and a willingness to go slowly.
When to Visit
Summer (June–August) offers the longest daylight (near 24 hours around the summer solstice), the warmest temperatures (10–15°C — this is the North Atlantic), the puffin breeding season, and the greenest landscapes. This is peak season, and the most popular tours and Mykines ferry crossings book out. The weather is still unpredictable but statistically the calmest.
Late spring (May) and early autumn (September) offer good conditions with fewer visitors. The puffins arrive in late April and leave by mid-August, so May catches the early breeding season. September has shorter days but dramatic autumn light and storm-watching potential.
Winter (November–March) is dark, stormy, and cold, but the Faroes in winter have a stark, elemental beauty — storm waves crashing against the cliffs, snow on the mountain peaks, and the Northern Lights visible on clear nights. Tourism infrastructure remains open year-round, and the experience of the Faroes in full winter conditions is powerful for visitors who embrace extreme weather.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I get to the Faroe Islands?
Atlantic Airways operates flights from Copenhagen (2 hours), Reykjavik, Edinburgh, and a few other European cities, with the most frequent service from Copenhagen. The Smyril Line ferry connects the Faroes to Denmark (Hirtshals) and Iceland (Seyðisfjörður), though the ferry takes roughly 36 hours from Denmark and operates on a limited schedule.
How many days do I need?
Four to five days is the minimum for a satisfying visit covering the major islands, key hikes, a boat tour, and Mykines. A week allows you to explore the northern islands, add more hiking, and build in weather contingency days (which you’ll likely need). Shorter visits are possible but the inter-island logistics and weather disruptions make 2–3 days feel rushed.
Do I need a guide, or can I explore independently?
Self-driving is possible and the islands are generally well-signposted. However, many of the best hikes and viewpoints are unmarked, the weather can turn dangerous quickly on exposed terrain, and the inter-island logistics (ferries, helicopters, tunnel systems) require local knowledge to navigate efficiently. A guide is particularly valuable for Mykines, the Vestmanna cliff boat tour, and any mountain hiking. Independent travellers should invest in detailed maps, download offline navigation, and build flexibility into their schedule for weather delays.
Can I see puffins outside the breeding season?
No. Puffins are present on Mykines and other Faroese breeding colonies from approximately late April to mid-August. Outside this window, the birds are at sea and the colonies are empty. If puffins are a priority, time your visit for May–July for the best activity levels.